If you're new to drumming, please refer to this guide for instructions on assembling and tuning your drums, holding sticks, and finding answers to frequently asked questions. Drums are easy to start but very difficult to master so don't get discouraged. Find a teacher, practice, and you'll get years of enjoyment from them.

One other thing, drums and music are about having fun. That's what your set is all about! Enjoy...
 

• Place the top drumhead onto the top bearing edge of the drum (Fig. 2a).
  
  
  
  
• Fit the rim onto the drumhead and align the ears over the lugs (Fig. 2b). The tension rods pass through the ears and thread into the corresponding swivel nuts.
  
• Next, turn the drum over and attach the bottom head. Finger-tighten the tension rods for now, we'll discuss tuning later in this guide..
  
  
  
  
  • Insert the floor tom legs into the leg brackets and extend the legs equally (Fig. 2c).
  
  
  Bass Drum Assembly
  
  
  • Place the front head with the large Beverley logo onto the front bearing edge (Fig. 3a).
  
  
  • Fit the bass drum hoop onto the flesh hoop of the head (Fig. 3b).
  
  
• Finger-tighten the tension rods and claws (Fig. 3c).

• Insert the beater shaft into the beater link and tighten the key bolt. About 1/4" of the beater shaft should be visible at the bottom of the beater link (Fig. 5b).

• Use the Stop Locks to prevent slippage and to "memorize" the height and tilt settings for quick and repeatable set-ups (Fig. 8c).

• Assemble the base, middle, and top sections of the Boom stand in the same manner as the straight cymbal stand.
• The boom arm can be attached as shown in (Fig. 12a). Or as a cymbal stand as shown in (Fig. 12b).
  
  
  Hi-Hat Stand Assembly
  
  
  • Attach the footboard to the base by squeezing the radius rods together and inserting the ends into the holes in the hi-hat frame (Fig. 13a).
    
    
    • Extend the legs of the base to form a sturdy tripod with the hi-hat frame just touching the floor-the hi-hat should feel solid without rocking (Fig. 13b).
    
    
    
    • Thread the pull rod into the receiver in the base (Fig. 13c).
    
    
  • Slide the upper tube over the pull rod and insert it into the base (Fig. 13d). Secure the upper tube about halfway up for now.
    
    
    Attaching and Adjusting Hi-hat Cymbals
    
    
    • Place the heavier cymbal (sometimes marked: Bottom) over the pull rod and rest it on the felt washer of the seat cup (Fig. 14a).
    
    
    • Remove the lock nut and the bottom felt washer from the clutch. Slip the clutch through the hole in the top cymbal and replace the bottom felt washer and lock nut. Note: If you have difficulty attaching the lock nut, reverse it and try again¾it only threads from one side. Slip the clutch and top cymbal onto the pull rod and space the cymbals about an inch apart (Fig. 14b).
    
    
    
  • Turn the bottom disk nut on the clutch to adjust the play of the top cymbal. Counter-tighten the top disk nut to retain the desired setting (Fig. 14c).
    
    
    
    • Sometimes while playing, the cymbals "air-lock" and make practically no sound. Tilting the bottom cymbal with the screw under the seat cup can remedy this situation (Fig. 14d).
      
      
      
      
      • The Hi-hat is equipped with a spring tension adjustment. Loosen the key bolt on the tension adjuster and slide it up or down to your preference. Retighten the key bolt to retain this setting (Fig. 14e).
        
        
        
        
        
        The Completed Drum Set
        
           Arrange your set to look similar to the completed set in Fig. 1 at the beginning of this article. Reverse the drums if you're left-handed.
        
        Adjust the height of the Drum throne so that it carries most of your weight. Position the throne so you can reach the bass pedal comfortably.
        
            Place the snare drum in front of you and adjust the height to a comfortable level. Experiment with the tilt of the snare drum to find an angle that feels best to you.
        
           Adjust the height, tilt, and closeness of the toms so you can switch from drum to drum quickly and easily. When done, slide the stop locks into the notches in the tom and bass drum brackets and tighten. The stop locks prevent slippage and "memorize" the position of the toms for quick set-ups.
        
            Position the hi-hat within easy reach of your hi-hat foot. Your legs should feel relaxed and balanced, not too close and not too far apart.
        
            Position the height and tilt of the ride cymbal so that it is easy to reach and not obstructing the any drums. Position additional cymbals similarly.
        
            Note: The above instructions are only suggestions. There is no right or wrong way to set up drums; the only thing that matters is how the drums fit you!
        
  
  Tuning Your Set
  
     Drum tuning is not bound by specific notes like guitars or pianos but instead can be tuned to your preference. However, if you want your drums to sound their best, they need to be tuned carefully. Follow the suggestions below and you'll have great sounding drums in no time!
  
     1) Tune each head to itself: Choose any drum and finger-tighten the tuning rods on one side. With a drum key tighten each rod 1/2 turn using a criss-cross sequence similar to the diagram in (Fig. 15). Repeat until the drumhead is free of wrinkles and a tone is produced. Tap the head at each tension rod and listen to the sound. If the head has the same pitch all the way around, this is what you want, the head is tensioned evenly. Chances are, however, that the sound will be "high" at some tension rods and "low" at others. To tune the head evenly, locate the tension rods where the sound is "high" and loosen these rods by 1/8 turn. Similarly locate the tension rods where the sound is "low" and tighten these rods by 1/8 turn. Repeat this procedure until the head has the same pitch all around, or in drummer talk, "is in tune with itself. "
  
     Once the head is in tune with itself, you can raise or lower the pitch of the head by tightening or loosening each tension rod by the same amount. Usually, the head will stay in tune with itself however if it should change, simply repeat the tuning procedure above.
  
     Turn the drum over and tune the other head. When you get to the snare drum, tune the top head in this manner, we'll deal with the bottom head later.
  
  
  
  
     2) Tune the heads to each other: The top and bottom heads can be tuned relative to each other three ways: 1) they can be tuned to the same pitch; 2) the top head can be tuned higher than the bottom; or 3) the top head tuned can be tuned lower than the bottom. There is no right or wrong so experiment with all three methods to see which sounds best to you.
  
     3) Tune the drums to each other: You're now ready to tune the whole set. The pitches descend as the drums get larger. Many drummers like to tune their toms a 4th apart. If you want to try this tuning, sing the first two notes of the wedding march, "Here Comes the Bride." "Here" and "Comes" are a 4th apart. Use these notes as a guide.
  
     If you prefer a more free-form method of tuning, go right ahead. As mentioned before, there are no right or wrong notes when tuning drums. Every drum however has a range of pitches where it sounds best. When tuned too high, drums tend to sound "choked" and constricted. Tuned too low makes them sound "flappy." Experiment until you find the notes that sound best to you.
  
  Tuning and Adjusting the Snare Drum
  
     The snare drum can be tuned to its own "voice" regardless of how the rest of the set is tuned. However, each snare drum has a range of notes where it sounds best and should be tuned accordingly.
  
     For most applications, tune the bottom head (the snare head) slightly tighter than the top head. This keeps the sound crisp and minimizes buzz from the snares (the wires that make the snare sound).
  
     The snares are turned on and off by the strainer (Fig. 16). A knob on the strainer controls the tightness of the snares. Adjust the knob to achieve a crisp snare sound. Overtightening the snares can choke the sound of the drum and shorten the life of the snares.
  
  
  
  
  
  How to Hold the Sticks
     There are two basic stick grips: matched grip and traditional grip. To learn about each and to choose the best grip for you, we suggest consulting a qualified drum teacher. Ask your authorized Pearl dealer for a list of teachers in your area.
  
     (Fig. 17a) shows the matched grip. As the name implies, the sticks are held similarly or "matched." Grip each stick between the thumb and first finger to form a pivot. The pivot point should be about two thirds from the tip of the stick. Complete the grip by lightly touching the remaining fingers around the sticks as shown.
  
  
  
  
  
  

(Fig. 17b) shows the traditional grip. The traditional grip was developed for marching but is still popular with many drumset players. The left stick is cradled in the "V" formed between the thumb and first finger and rests on the fourth finger as shown. The thumb and first finger surround the stick for control. The middle finger lightly presses against the stick and acts as a guide. The right stick is held in the matched grip.

Note: The above examples are for illustrative purposes. As you learn more about drumming, you'll find that there is no right or wrong way to do anything. What works best for you is what matters!

   (Fig. 18) shows a popular cymbal set-up featuring sizes for most applications (L to R: 14" Hi-hats, 16" Crash, 20" Ride). In general, rides and hi-hat cymbals are used to keep time while crashes and effects cymbals, such as splashes and china cymbals, are used to "punctuate" the music.